Kobe (Osaka), Japan

Kobe is one of Japan’s ten largest cities and has a unique history. In January 1995, Kobe was hit by the Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake which killed over 5000 people. Tens of thousands of buildings were destroyed in the quake but a short decade later, the city is completely rebuilt and is considered one of Japan’s most attractive cities.

After disembarking the ms Volendam for the last time this trip, we loaded onto motor coaches for the tour of Mt. Rokko and the Hakustsuru Sake Brewery and Museum. Being a guest was quite strange after being the guide for so long, but it felt good to just sit back, relax and listen.

Mt. Rokko sits above the city and we had a spectacular ride as we weaved our way around the curves to reach the summit. The vegetation is lush and green with a few deciduous trees were beginning to turn fall colors. A deck on the front of the restaurant and gift shop gave us a terrific view of Kobe and the port. Behind the buildings were wonderful nature trails and a view of the mountain valley, complete with a lake and golf course. We were told that in order to be a member of the Mt. Rokko Golf Club, you have to pay the equivalent of 10,000 dollars per year…wow.
To make our way down the mountain we were loaded into a cog rail train; it was literally built like the shape of the mountain and that’s the way you board it. The stairs to the train run the length of it and you walk in and sit down with the next row about three feet below you and that seat three feet below it and so on and so on…fascinating. After boarding the motor coach again we make our way to the Sake Brewery.

When we arrive at the Brewery, much to my surprise and pleasure I see the logo on the tower. Their logo is the crane (which I adore of course) and this is one of my favorite sakes, when I can get it, in the US. They pride themselves on making sake the traditional way as their predecessors did since the brewery opened in 1743; although using modern machinery the process remains the same. The rice is washed, steamed, cooled and left to mold (yum). This culturing produces a seed mash that becomes the main mash which is then filtered, skimmed, pasteurized and then stored in large tanks. After aging until Fall, the clear sake is poured into Yoshino cedar barrels and wrapped in straw mats. The finished product is then marked, labeled and prepared for distribution. Just like Coors Brewery in Colorado there was a sample given at the end and it was delicious. Japanese sake packs a punch though so be careful.

I spent my last evening at a Hotel in Osaka and had a wonderful meal of Octopus, Squid, Eel and wonderful veggies cooked in traditional Japanese style. My trip to Japan was all that I thought it would be and more. If given the opportunity, I will go back.

Kyoto, Japan

The change in itinerary due to typhoon Malor allowed us to be in the Port of Kobe one more day, as a result I decided to use the first day to visit nearby Kyoto. Kyoto was the Japanese Capital from the 8th to the 19th centuries with the Imperial buildings dating back to the 1600s. When the capital was moved to Tokyo it remained the Japanese cultural center. Locals come here to visit the city for a vacation so I knew it was worth seeing.

The best and quickest way to Kyoto from Kobe is by bullet train, a top ten on my Japan bucket list. It was amazing; the train went 180 MPH and felt like flying in a plane on the ground. The usual 45 minutes by train to the first stop took us 7 minutes, incredible. I was taken by how clean the public transportation was, just like the city streets. None of the public places have trash or stains. Part of the cleanliness is due to the fact that when walking in public, eating and drinking are frowned upon. The only trash cans you will find are in restaurants and most of the bathrooms have no toilet paper or paper towels to become litter. It took some getting used to but it was completely worth the beautiful surroundings. In case you are wondering about no TP; the ToTo’s (Japanese western toilets) have many features that ours do not, including a spray of water.

Kyoto had a feel about it; historical, spiritual, the heart of Japan and it was wonderful. I walked the streets exploring and decided to go up the tower to see where I would venture to next. The view was fantastic; temples and shrines inter-mingled with more modern buildings, a Buddha on the hillside looking over the residents and the ocean, blue and beautiful.

I made my way to the Imperial Palace, the residence of the Imperial family until the capital was relocated to Tokyo in 1868. On the way, I walked along local streets just big enough for one car. Packages were being delivered by bicycles, rickshaws had right of way to walkers and the houses one next to the other were ornately carved in the wood that covered them. The palace itself was even bigger than it looked from the tower, spanning about 8 by 7 city blocks. The whole area was surrounded by a moat filled with Koi and beautiful water plants. As I entered the gates I couldn’t believe how large the structure was before me. Hundreds of pigeons flew in the square being fed by locals. To the left was a drinking well with an ornate dragon, like so many around Japan. I tried to imagine what it must have been like to live in such a place.

Kyoto was one of the highlights of my trip and I am grateful that I had an opportunity to visit, thank you typhoon Malor.

Tomorrow is my last day of the cruise and I will be touring Kobe.

Aomori, Japan

As we docked at the Aomori port the first thing you see is a strikingly beautiful bridge. The architecture in this city and Japan as a whole has been magnificent. Along the water as we disembark was a beautiful park with grass and trees allowing me to get 2 more life birds, the Oriental Cuckoo and the Long-tailed Rose Finch.

I made my way through the city headed to the Japan Rail Building hoping to explore some of the sites nearby. I wanted to see the Sannai-Maruyama Site or go to the Great Buddah (Showa Daibutsu).

The Sannai-Maruyama is a National Historic Treasure containing ruins dating back to 4000-5500 years ago (How old is the United States?). Today, archeologists are excavating more of the site and finding artifacts and clues to how the people lived at that time.

As I stood at the station, feeling confused, with no one speaking English, I saw a picture of the Buddha on a bus….as a result I hopped on, my decision was made. When I arrived at the site it was beautiful. The first vision was fields of rice in the midst of being harvested. The drying stalks looked nothing like rice but upon closer inspection you could see the kernels. Up the hill were many buildings including two Buddhist temples. I felt humbled when a Japanese woman came out with tongs and a bucket and picked the beetles gently up to return them to the woods. They do practice what they preach. The grounds were as I would expect from a Japanese garden with statues, a waterfall, wells, a large bell and many places to sit and be reflective. As I walked up the path, what I had come to see, came into view. On the hillside sat the Showa Daibutsu and my breath was taken away. The Great Buddha was more than two stories tall sitting in a lotus flower with hands held in a Zen meditation hand gesture. Much to my delight I could enter the Buddha in the back to go inside. After removing my shoes I stepped into a round hall completely filled with Buddhist proverbs and art. This was a wonderful collection and the place felt so spiritual. I then made my way to the second floor where I rubbed the belly of the Buddha from the inside out; I then took a moment to light some incense and say a prayer. What a great experience, one that I will never forget.

The captain and crew changed the itinerary due to hurricane Malor. It was to be a direct hit on Tokyo when we were scheduled to arrive, better to stay in the safety of the Japan Sea.

Tomorrow we cruise to Kobe, Japan.

Otaru and Sapporo, Japan

Overnight we cruised to the western side of Hokkaido Island and docked at the port of Otaru. It is believed that the name is derived from the Ainu (indigenous people) word “Otarunai” meaning “sandy swampland”; not a flattering name but a most beautiful place.

My first adventure was to explore the canal. The Otaru Canal was completed in 1920 to aid in the transport of goods to the city. Prior to the canal, ships would be off-loaded onto small tug boats (hashike) from the bay and these boats would then go up the canal, lined with warehouses, and drop off the goods. It was a very pleasant walk teaming with bird and plant life.

I then walked through the city and was amazed at the mix of buildings from the late 1800’s mixed with modern, western architecture. There were more open markets and vendors along the way and many of the local dogs, the Aikita, a medium sized, adorable fur-ball.

With half of my day remaining I decided to go to the JR (Japanese Rail) and make my way to Sapporo, this was an incredible city. As I emerged from the rail station (by the way not much was bilingual, I had to read Japanese characters that matched the city names…a great experience and challenge) much to my surprise were beautiful tall sky scrapers and buildings with TV’s on them, reminiscent of Time Square in New York.

The city was alive and vibrant and yet I longed for nature; Odori-koen was my goal. The Odori-koen is a park in the center of the city about 4,000 feet long; it was originally built as a precautionary fire barrier between the northern and southern districts and was beautiful.

I then made my way to the government district, finding 6 lifer birds at the lakes and in the trees on the grounds. The Japanese used this place as a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and so did I. Another fun discovery was the Gingko trees that I only knew as some holistic herb for health were the main local trees and it was fantastic to see them in all their glory…magnificent.

Next port….Aomori, Japan

Hakodate, Japan

After 8 days at sea we happily arrive at our first port. Hakodate is on the island of Hokkaido and is the gateway between the Japan Sea and the Pacific Ocean. This port is a major base for the fishing industry with about 21,000 ships coming in annually.

My first stop was at the morning market. Vendors sold vegetables, noodles and an array of seafood like I’ve never seen before. With all my experience as a naturalist there were creatures that I could not identify. Luckily, with the help of a vendor who spoke some English I got a crash course. The big seller of course is crab in all shapes and sizes with some reaching 2 feet across. Other edible critters were scallops, abalone, mussels, snails, frogs and the Hakodate mascot, the squid. It was incredible to see such a volume of seafood, vendor after vendor, and it made me realize how much is out in the seas and how important it is to this society. I tried some local crab mixed with goodies in a shell (I believe it was the green parts of the crab) and much to the delight of locals I not only ate it but licked my hand. A good laugh was had by all and the food was rather tasty.

In the afternoon I headed to Goryokaku Park and Tower. This area is the oldest western-style fortress in Japan built in 1864 after Commodore Matthew Perry negotiated the opening of several Japanese ports. The fort was built as a precaution against the threat of Russian attack. It is configured in a five-pointed star shape which allowed defenders to trap assailants in crossfire, clever. The moat was full of water and this is where I got my first Japanese lifer, the Spot-billed Duck.

In addition to the park is the Tower. The Japanese are fond of their towers which overlook the surrounding area and have wonderful viewing areas at the top. They sell posters, have collection stamps and characters that greet guests.

It was a glorious day and tomorrow onto the port of Otaru.

Bon Voyage

After completing my summer season in Alaska I boarded the ms Volendam in Seattle, WA for a 15-day cruise across the Pacific Ocean to Japan. The Pacific is not a friendly place this time of year and despite the ship being 781 feet long and a few stories high, we could feel it. Seas, at times, reached 10-12 feet and it made ping pong and swimming a contact sport.

It took us 7 days at an average of 17 knots to reach Japan. Along the way we passed the Aleutian Islands of Alaska and the Kuril Islands of Russia following the Kuril Trench. As we came closer to land we began to see more birds and even had some sea birds using the boats light at night to fish, what a sight!

Below are some facts about the ms Volendam.

Ship's Registry: The Netherlands
Passenger capacity: 1,432
Crew members: 615
Gross Tonnage: 61,214 grt.
Length: 781 feet
Beam: 105.8 feet
Maximum speed: 23 knots
Dedicated: November 1999, by tennis professional Chris Evert

When we reached Japan our first stop was the northernmost island of Hokkaido and the port of Hakodate.

Leaving Alaska…for now

The season in Alaska is over for this year and the locals bid farewell to the influx of workers and tourists that come to visit.

This enchanting place has stolen my heart and as long as I am able I will return again and again.

The signs began weeks ago, feeling the summer start to turn to fall.

The fireweed topped out and went to seed, blowing on the wind like the snow that will soon fly. The termination dust that came to Denali weeks earlier made its way south to Anchorage, covering the tops of the mountains like powdered sugar. The last of the Salmon were running up the fresh water streams that would soon freeze over and create pathways for the animal and humans when the snow has covered the land.

The local residents were busy chopping wood, putting on their studded tires and winter-proofing their houses. Soon the dog sleds and snow machines will become the main mode of transportation in the bush of Alaska.

The birds and squirrels were constantly feeding and storing food for the long winter. The bears were eating the last of the salmon and the abundance of berries available before going into their dens.

Soon the leaves will drop from the trees and it will grow cold and quiet as winter comes to the last frontier, waiting for spring to emerge and the workers and visitors to migrate back to this wonderful place.

Dogs – More than a Mutt in Alaska

Much to my surprise, as I learned about the state sport of dog mushing in Alaska was that the sled dogs I encountered looked nothing like the “Alaskan Husky” that I knew and loved. In reality, true sled dogs are a mixed breed of all colors, smaller and leaner than the purebred “show” dogs.

These mixed breeds create a dog that is strong, more resistant to disease, suited to the cold climate and most importantly has a strong desire to run and run and run. The blue eyes are only predominant when the dogs are young and as they age most turn dark in color.

When racing over long distances these animals will run 8-10 MPH for about 6 hours and then will rest until allowed to go again by the musher (driver of the sled). They will consume about 10,000 calories per day to meet that challenge. Wow!

There are many short sprint races that dog teams run but the most famous and well know race, more like a marathon, is the Iditarod. It runs annually from Anchorage to Nome, covering more than 1,000 miles.

Another lesser known but just as prestigious race is the Yukon Quest. It covers about 1,000 miles from Fairbanks to Whitehorse, Yukon.

I’ve also learned, by visiting many kennels this summer, that winning is wonderful but more than that is the bond and friendship that comes from working with these wonderful athletes.

These “mutts” of Alaska are some of the hardest working athletes in the world. Mush On!!

Four Star Luxury in Alaska

Located amid the beautiful Chugach Mountains is an oasis in contrast to the harsher wilds of Alaska, The Alyeska Resort. It is the only year-round full service resort just 40 miles south of Anchorage or 90 miles north of Seward, near the town of Girdwood.

It is a major ski destination in the winter but it abounds with summer activities as well. The Aerial Tramway is a must. This seven-minute ride takes guests to the 2,300 foot summit where there outstanding views of Turnagain Arm, the Chugach Mountain Range, hanging glaciers and wildlife. We were fortunate enough to see black bear foraging on the same trail that we hiked that morning....yikes!

For the more adventurous, the resort rents bikes, has numerous hiking trails (including straight up the ski slopes) and tandem paragliding from the top of Mount Alyeska.

This resort is also known for its spa. Many types of massages, wraps and treatments are available and an afternoon of pampering is perfect after an exciting morning of activities.

The Alyeska Resort is a luxurious way to spend a few days of your Alaskan Adventure.

Exploring the Yukon

Dawson City

Welcome to Mile Zero! Dawson Creek is the point of origin of the Historic Alaska Highway, which stretches 2,400 km north to Fairbanks in Alaska. This is a great little town with colorful houses, a nice main street, a casino and a bar famous for its Toe Cocktail. This cocktail has a long history and involves guests drinking a shot of Yukon Jack with a real severed human toe in it. Only those with the heartiest of souls can accomplish this task. Yes, believe it or not I was the first woman in the group to successfully become a new club member. When you get out of town and into the hills the views are spectacular. Crocus Bluff overlooks the confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers on one side and the town on the other. Bears had been sighted on the trail before we hiked and it was no wonder; berries, shrubs and grasses were abundant. Remember, the way to tell the difference between a Brown Bear and a Black Bear is that the Brown Bear’s scat is full of bear bells and it smells like pepper. :)

Haines Junction and Beaver Creek

Our first major stop today was Haines Junction. This is a beautiful town that boasts “The Gateway to the Kluane (Clue on ee). The area is lush with wildlife and tall snow covered peaks giving us our first good bear and moose sightings. Trumpeter Swans were on the lakes and the bird species and numbers increased. The black spruce, called pipe cleaners by the locals, dominated the landscape and many had burls the size of basketballs formed when invaded by insects. In places the terrain looked like the surface of the moon. There were large gray areas of fine sand created by Glacier Silt flowing from high above, filling in the valley floor. Just when I thought I was in a remote area of the Yukon, we arrived in Beaver Creek. As the locals say “301 miles from nowhere” and it’s true. We spent the night in rustic rooms of pine furniture and twin beds, no TV or internet and hardly any residents. In the winter the population is 80 folks and it doubles in the summer for tourism. The hotel, the gas station/store and visitor center are all within walking distance. Tomorrow we leave Canada and the Yukon Territory and head back into the USA…Fairbanks or Bust.

North to the Yukon

We had a fabulous day in Skagway today. This town was built to supply the miners with goods who were headed for the Klondike Goldfields over the White Pass. It is one of only a few towns that have their original boardwalks and buildings; most other small towns have had at least one fire that destroyed everything. In the afternoon we went over the White Pass to the Yukon Suspension Bridge; located high above the Tutshi River (TOO-shy), what a rush. That evening we went to Liarsville for an open grill Salmon Bake and Miner’s Camp (I wish they catered the lower 48!).

The tour directors are moving north today to explore the Yukon Territory further. We boarded the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad in Skagway and took the train to Fraser, B.C. From there we boarded our motor coach and headed to White Horse, Yukon Territory. The views are incredible, I adore Canada. We took a field trip to the #1 Micro Brewery in the Yukon where Yukon Gold is made to learn about the process and logistics for tours…and a little tasting. Tomorrow we head to Dawson City.

The Milk Run

After a meet and greet with other Tour Directors and Land Operation employees we were off to Juneau, the capital city of Alaska. We boarded an Alaska Airlines plane and went on "The Milk Run" flight, called this because you land at every town with an airport to drop supplies. We stopped at Cordova, Yukatat and then Juneau reaching altitude and then beginning the descent....what a kick! We don't actually do tours to Juneau (it only has 30 miles of road around the bay and can only be accessed by air or water) but this is how we will get to Skagway tomorrow via the Day Boat.

Anchorage Alaska

Flew in to Anchorage last night and it was beautiful; the mountains and glaciers are fantastic. It was 66F when I landed and I was overdressed; so much for cold in AK! I just went to Glacier Brewing Company and got take out: a wonderful seafood chowder, sourdough bread and a fantastic spinach and pear salad with fresh figs, candied walnuts and goat cheese. What a great way to start my new job here. The sun set around 10 pm and was incredible; it's amazing how much energy you have when the days are longer. I will start my training tour today and be heading to Juneau this evening. No bears or moose yet but stay posted.

Another Jewel in Boulder County

Kristy and Dee went for an evening bird walk last night at Teller Farm in Boulder County. It is located on the north side of Arapahoe Road between 75th and 95th Streets. In just over an hour we saw 28 species of birds...fun indeed! This area has varied habitat: a couple of lakes, irrigation ditch, fields, cottonwood stands and crop land which allows for a great variety of species. Another bonus to this area is the beautiful view of the flatirons and front range of Boulder. My first yellow-rumped warblers of the season were hanging out. When we stood still they came to investigate us and it was too close for binoculars, always a thrill (above). As always it is great to be birding in Colorado. The complete list: 1) Western Meadowlark, 2) Yellow-headed Blackbird, 3) Red-winged Blackbird, 4) Great Blue Heron, 5) Red-tailed Hawk, 6) House Sparrow, 7) House Finch, 8) European Starling, 9) Mallard, 10) Black-billed Magpie, 11) American Robin, 12) Double-crested Cormorant, 13) Cinnamon Teal, 14) Western Grebe, 15) Canada Goose, 16) Killdeer, 17) Tree Swallow, 18) Violet-green Swallow, 19) American Coot, 20) Mourning Dove, 21) American Tree Sparrow, 22) Yellow-rumped Warbler (Myrtle Race), 23) White-crowned Sparrow, 24) Northern Flicker, 25) American White Pelican, 26) Blue Jay, 27) American Kestrel, 28) Great Horned Owl.

Birding in Boulder County

Today was a wonderful day to do some spring birding in Boulder County. We visited Rock Creek Farm, Walnut Creek Trail and Standley Lake. The Swainson's Hawks are in and making nests and we found Great Blue Heron Rookeries, Double-crested Cormorant Rookeries and many Red-tailed Hawks nests. The Yellow-headed Blackbird (right) was in full force and at times covered the trees like ornaments. Here is our complete list for the morning: 1) Western Meadowlark, 2) Red-winged Blackbird, 3) Canada Goose, 4) Common Grackle, 5) American Tree Sparrow, 6) Killdeer, 7) Northern Shoveler, 8) Tree Swallow, 9) Yellow-headed Blackbird, 10) Mallard, 11) Barn Swallow, 12) Bonaparte's Gull, 13) Blue-winged Teal, 14) Willet, 15) American Avocet, 16) European Starling, 17) Violet-green Swallow, 18) Red-tailed Hawk, 19) Spotted Sandpiper, 20) American Robin, 21) Song Sparrow, 22) Mourning Dove, 23) American Kestrel, 24) Say's Phoebe, 25) Sharp-shinned Hawk, 26) Swainson's Hawk, 27) Great Blue Heron, 28) Belted Kingfisher, 29) Northern Flicker, 30) American Goldfinch, 31) Double-crested Cormorant, 32) Black-billed Magpie, 33) Bald Eagle. Happy Birding! Dee

Mountain Plover Search in Pawnee Grasslands

On April 11th Kristy and Dee went on a trip to search for the Mountain Plover in Pawnee National Grasslands. This bird is a species of concern and is becoming more rare to see. The wind was blowing and the temperature was frigid but the birds didn't care. We had a wonderful day and had a total of 56 species for the trip. Other stops along the way were Drake Lake and Tinmath Reservoir. We did see the Mountain Plover, in fact three of them. Following is the complete bird list: 1) Snow Goose, 2) American Kestrel, 3) Mourning Dove, 4) American Robin, 5) Golden Eagle, 6) Northern Harrier, 7) Western Meadowlark, 8) Black-billed Magpie, 9) Ring-billed Gull, 10) Great Blue Heron, 11) Rock Pigeon, 12) Canada Geese, 13) Red-tailed Hawk, 14) European Starling, 15) Eurasian Collored-Dove, 16) Burrowing Owl, 17) Horned Lark, 18) Mountain Plover, 19) Northern Flicker, 20) Barn Owl (Crow Valley Campground had 3!), 21) Red-winged Blackbird, 22) Double-crested Cormorant, 23) McCown's Longspur, 24) American Coot, 25) Pied-billed Grebe, 26) Yellow-headed Blackbird, 27) Northern Shoveler, 28) Blue-winged Teal, 29) Lesser Scaup, 30) Gadwall, 31) Franklin's Gull, 32) Ring-necked Duck, 33) Cinnamon Teal, 34) California Gull, 35) Common Grackle, 36) Mallard, 37) Swainson's Hawk, 38) American Wigeon, 39) House Sparrow, 40) Great-tailed Grackle, 41) American White Pelican, 42) Dark-eyed Junco, 43) Ring-necked Pheasant, 44) Bufflehead, 45) Canvasback, 46) Redhead, 47) Killdeer, 48) Greater Yellowlegs, 49) Greater White-fronted Goose, 50) Common Goldeneye, 51) Prairie Falcon, 52) Common Merganser, 53) Red-breasted Merganser, 54) Ruddy Duck, 55) Horned Grebe, 56) Western Grebe.

Monte Vista Crane Festival 2009

If you a nature lover, especially a birder, this Festival is a must see. Thousands of Greater Sandhill Cranes migrate through the San Luis Valley each spring and it is a sight to behold. Enjoy great speakers, tours, a pancake breakfast, craft fair and of course...the birds.

A moment that almost brought my best friend and me to tears: we were in the Monte Vista National Wildlife Refuge heading to where the sunrise fly out of the cranes would be and I saw a picture of a mountain range I wanted to take. We pulled over and got out. All we could hear were the birds in the distance. We noticed the moon to the west over the snow covered peaks and behind us the sky was turning orange from the sunrise. As we stood and took pictures enjoying the crisp air, the sounds of nature and the beautiful scenery, we heard the wing beats. Above us, beside us and all around us were thousands of sandhill cranes...we just happened to stop in the middle of their path from the night roost site on the lakes to the fields where they will spend their day feeding. We were the only two for miles enjoying this wonderful event and we felt priveledged and so lucky to be there.

Here is the wildlife list from the trip. Mammals: Pronghorn, Elk and Desert Cottontail Rabbits. Birds: Great Blue Heron, Canada Goose, Mallard, Northern Pintail, Blue-winged Teal, Cinnamon Teal, Northern Shoveler, Gadwall, American Wigeon, Lesser Scaup, Bufflehead, Hooded Merganser, Ruddy Duck, Bald Eagle, Northern Harrier, Red-tailed Hawk, Ferruginous Hawk, Golden Eagle, American Kestrel, Merlin, Prairie Falcon, Ring-necked Pheasant, American Coot, Sandhill Crane, Ring-billed Gull, Rock Pigeon, Mourning Dove, Great Horned Owl, Northern Flicker, Say's Phoebe, Horned Lark, Black-billed Magpie, American Crow, Common Raven, Marsh Wren, Mountain Bluebird, American Robin, European Starling, Savannah Sparrow, Song Sparrow, Red-winged Blackbird, Western Meadowlark, House Finch and House Sparrow. Total of 44 Species.